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Dries Van Noten: Where Textile Art Meets Footwear Design

As a member of the Antwerp Six, Dries Van Noten stands apart for his ability to balance poetic restraint with a bold creative voice. Much of the attention in fashion goes to his intricately layered garments, yet his footwear tells an equally nuanced story. Here, shoes are not just accessories but thoughtful extensions of his main collections, created with the same emphasis on color harmony, texture, and composition. His approach to shoes is about building a total look, each pair is meticulously designed to complement the larger narrative unfolding on the runway.



Textiles Reimagined


One of the defining features of Dries Van Noten’s footwear is the fearless use of textiles. Far from being secondary to the clothing, materials like metallic jacquard, moiré silk, velvet, and richly embroidered canvas often take center stage on boots, sandals, and heels. In his Fall/Winter 2019 collection, for example, ankle boots appeared in vivid brocade patterns that echoed the coats and dresses, bringing a sense of cohesion and artistry to the entire silhouette. For Spring/Summer 2020, he collaborated with renowned British designer Christian Lacroix, resulting in shoes adorned with dramatic floral appliqués and unexpected fabric pairings. These choices are never arbitrary; each season’s shoe designs reflect the same creative themes as the garments, turning footwear into a continuation of the collection’s narrative. This textile-forward approach is not just about visual appeal but also about inviting the wearer to experience the story through touch and detail.




Sculptural Heels and Subtle Boldness


Beyond materials, Dries Van Noten’s shoes are recognized for their distinctive silhouettes. Instead of following fleeting trends, he opts for shapes that are both experimental and wearable. Platform soles, exaggerated block heels, and sharply angled wedges recur in his collections, offering an architectural quality to each step. A notable example can be seen in his Fall/Winter 2021 line, where pumps featured unusually shaped metallic heels, which were angular, almost sculptural, yet balanced, so the shoes remain easy to walk in. Even when the designs push boundaries, they never sacrifice comfort or practicality. This signature balance allows the shoes to make a statement without overwhelming the wearer. Often, the sculptural forms echo the cut and structure of his garments, reinforcing a sense of unity across the entire collection.



Gender Fluidity and Androgynous Appeal


Dries Van Noten has always been ahead of his time when it comes to challenging traditional notions of gender in fashion, and this is especially evident in his approach to footwear. Instead of producing strictly gendered lines, he often introduces styles that blur the lines between masculine and feminine. Men’s collections might include boots in glossy satin or with floral embroidery, while women’s shoes can feature squared toes, industrial straps, or utilitarian rubber soles. The Spring/Summer 2018 collection saw women’s sandals with chunky, hardware-adorned soles, directly inspired by men’s workwear, while men’s slippers appeared in rich, jewel-toned velvet. This nuanced approach is less about making a loud statement and more about reflecting the diversity and fluidity of contemporary dressing, offering options for anyone who values style beyond categories.


Style Without Shouting


Subtlety is a trademark of Dries Van Noten, and this ethos extends to his shoes. There’s no reliance on conspicuous logos or bold branding. Instead, the designs rely on silhouette, proportion, and material to make their impact. For instance, a velvet mule or a metallic jacquard boot might catch the eye, but never because of an ostentatious logo. This focus on understated elegance means his shoes retain a timeless quality, easily transitioning between seasons and resisting the cycle of fast fashion. They are designed to be collected and cherished, not discarded when trends shift.


Craftsmanship Behind the Scenes


Many of Dries Van Noten’s shoes are produced in small Italian and Spanish workshops, where generations of artisans bring his visions to life. The process is collaborative, often requiring multiple prototypes to achieve the perfect balance of form and function. Attention to detail is paramount, embroidery is applied by hand, leathers are selected for their unique texture and color, and heels are engineered for both aesthetics and stability. This artisanal approach sets his footwear apart from mass-market brands, resulting in products that feel both luxurious and personal. The partnership with skilled craftsmen ensures that each shoe meets the designer’s high standards, reflecting a commitment to quality over quantity.


A Lasting Impression


In the world of Dries Van Noten, shoes are more than finishing touches, they are integral parts of a larger creative conversation. Each design is a testament to the designer’s ability to blend art, innovation, and emotion, crafting footwear that resonates with individuals who appreciate subtlety and sophistication. These are shoes made to be lived in, their stories unfolding with every step.


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