Two Worlds in Every Step: Yasuko Furuta’s Vision Between Vintage and Futurism

While shoes are often considered an afterthought in fashion, Yasuko Furuta sees them as a key element of expression. As the founder of the Tokyo-based label TOGA, she channels her creative vision into footwear that challenges conventions and reflects personal identity. Her designs blur the lines between masculine and feminine, traditional and modern, refined and bold. For Furuta, a shoe is not only about utility but also a statement piece that speaks to the core of individual style.

A Cross-Cultural Beginning

Furuta was born in Japan and began her creative journey by studying fashion design at Esmod Paris, one of the most prestigious design schools in the world. Her time in France gave her a deep appreciation for European tailoring and technical precision. At the same time, her Japanese roots shaped her love of experimentation, layering, and cultural contrast. These dual influences remain central to TOGA’s identity today.

She launched TOGA in 1997, naming the brand after the Roman robe as a symbol of structure, history, and timelessness. The brand quickly gained recognition for its hybrid aesthetic, which combined vintage references, modern construction, unexpected materials, and subtle yet striking asymmetries.

Your Shoes Know Who You Are

Although TOGA originally focused on apparel, Furuta gradually turned more attention toward footwear. She has explained that shoes are a direct expression of how a person carries themselves. In her view, shoes are not just something to complete an outfit; they are the starting point for style, movement, and even confidence.

Furuta believes that a pair of shoes can influence posture, attitude, and how someone moves through the world. That philosophy explains why TOGA’s shoes often stand out, even in collections filled with statement clothing. They are not designed to fade into the background. They are meant to speak first.

The TOGA Footprint: Bold, Unmistakable, and Unapologetic

Furuta’s shoe designs are bold and instantly recognizable. Many pairs feature a distinctive mix of materials, such as polished leather combined with suede or mesh, and her signature silver-tone hardware including decorative buckles, plates, and butterfly motifs. She often fuses classic Western influences, such as cowboy boots or monkstraps, with thick soles and graphic construction.

One standout example is her exclusive monkstrap shoe for SSENSE. Made from polished black leather and finished with engraved metal details, a butterfly-shaped buckle, and a chunky rubber sole, it reflects the key ideas behind TOGA footwear. The design is formal yet edgy, refined but full of personality.

Who Says Shoes Have a Gender?

Through TOGA Virilis, her menswear line, Furuta explores how footwear can reshape ideas of masculinity and femininity. She blends traditionally masculine silhouettes with softer or more decorative features. Some designs include embroidery, fringe, or unexpected textures. Rather than separating her audience by gender, she invites wearers to define their own style on their own terms.

This openness to mixing references and influences is a recurring theme in all her work. Whether designing shoes, jackets, or accessories, Furuta aims to reflect the full complexity of modern identity.

Form, Feel, and Function: The TOGA Material Code

Materials are never used randomly in TOGA’s footwear. Furuta often combines smooth leather with mesh, synthetics, or textured fabric to build visual contrast. Hardware is not only functional but also symbolic. It turns each shoe into an object of design with lasting impact.

Her choices reflect a deeper philosophy about opposites and balance. She is interested in bringing different elements together in a way that highlights their differences while creating something harmonious. Although TOGA is not positioned as a sustainability-focused brand, Furuta prioritizes quality and longevity. Her shoes are built to endure and evolve with time.

Runway Ideas, Street-Ready Shoes

While TOGA’s footwear carries a strong artistic identity, Furuta always considers comfort and practicality. Many designs feature thick rubber soles or supportive inner structures that make them easy to wear throughout the day. Her goal is to offer footwear that feels special but also fits into everyday life.

This balance between originality and functionality was clearly reflected in her 2021 collaboration with H&M. The collection included reimagined TOGA footwear with silver detailing, buckles, and platform soles. It gave a wider audience access to her unique aesthetic without compromising the integrity of her design.

Shoes as a Language

To Yasuko Furuta, shoes are often the first thing people notice. They communicate taste, confidence, and intention before anything else. Her footwear design invites people to express themselves fully, beginning with what they wear on their feet.

She has said that she wants people to feel more like themselves when they wear her work. Every TOGA shoe is crafted with that idea in mind. With each pair, Furuta creates not just a product but an experience. Her shoes offer a sense of freedom, a message of individuality, and a reminder that personal style often starts from the ground up.

Sources: toga.jp | esmod.com | vogue.com

Images: int.toga.jp | elle.com | ssense.com